2 1/2 DAYS ON THE NPT

I have obsessed over the Northville-Placid Trail (NPT) for the last few years. 133 miles of lakes, forests, mud and bugs cutting through the heart of the Adirondacks. Last summer I attempted to run the trail from the north with support from friends and family to feed and encourage me. After 96 miles I had to stop due mostly to blistered feet from the very wet trail. It’s tough to organize people to help out for such a remote and extreme challenge like this, with weather and work it was stressful. This year came around and I wanted redemption but sought to try it in a different style. Last go around I was fully supported, this time it was all on me, unsupported and solo. 

There are many ways to measure and do this trail but the most pure way has to be by starting in Northville and ending at the Train Station in Lake Placid, 135 miles later. Most hikers do a more common but slightly abbreviated version by starting in Upper Benson 10.3 mile up the road from Northville and end at the Averyville Trailhead in Lake Placid making the trail 122 miles long and eliminating 13 miles of road walking. The record time for the entire 135 mile long NPT unsupported was by Erik Schlimmer in 80 hours, in 2008.

On September 2nd, 2009 my wife Alison kicked me out of the car  in Northville, New York with a 12 pound backpack and told me to “have fun…”

Starting from the DEC NPT trail sign at the bridge over the Sacandaga River at 11:40 AM on a sunny blue sky day I marched down Route 30. 3 miles of hard pavement brought me to Benson Road and its steep and tedious pavement for 6 more miles to the dirt of Godfrey Road, then reaching the trailhead at 10 miles. Once established on the trail I began to run when the terrain dictated and fast hike otherwise. The trail was in good shape and I was making good time as I passed Rock Lake and Silver Lake. Then at 1.75 miles past Silver Lake I reached the first wet obstacle of the route, a submerged boardwalk section through a swamp, wet feet were unavoidable. Once back on solid ground I raced the remaining daylight past Mud Pond and then to the suspension bridge over the West Branch of the Sacandaga River and the end of the section arriving at Whitehouse 8:20PM  as daylight ran out.

My plan was to continue through the night deep into the West Canada Lakes Wilderness 30 plus miles away. Well, plans change when you start to feel ill in the stomach (common for me around 25 miles into an endurance event), and you are struggling to find your rhythm at night alone without company. The last factor that I find the most challenging is functioning with a diagnosed panic disorder. Panic for me can set in at anytime, anywhere. Most commonly it is triggered by weather, but remoteness and the unfamiliarar have their effect as well.  Leaving Whitehouse things are going downhill,  as I struggle to find my balance. It’s dark and lonely and I wander through the next 4 miles. Hunger is appearing and I wait for the next stream to take a break and cook dinner. At 10:00PM I reach the outflow from Buckhorn Lake. I gather water and cook up a dehydrated meal. Dinner time… oh I’m not hungry at all. I shove down a few spoonfuls and go to bed with all thoughts on calling Alison from Piseco in the morning to come and pick me up.

1:55AM and I’m awake again putting on my shoes and gaiters and choking down some more food. “Left Foot Right Foot” is the mantra in the ultramarathon world. 

“Left Foot Right Foot” down the trail and to the end of the section crossing Route 8 in Piseco.  3 miles of fog shrouded road walking through the hamlet eating my cold dinner brings me to the next trailhead at the end of Haskell Road.

2:55AM I sign in at the register and gravity takes over as I curl up on the ground and fall asleep for the second time . This isn’t going as planned. 

6:15AM I’m woken by the cold clamminess from my “sleeping bag”. Do I turn tail and call it quits or commit and head into the dawn towards Wakely Dam. 32 miles to the dam, “Left Foot, Right Foot” . As the morning progresses I find my rhythm and though the trail is long and tedious at time I enjoy the beauty and remoteness of the NPT. I reach the first Spruce Lake leanto and brew up some tea for a boost of caffeine. Onward to West Canada Lakes and  then to the clearing at French Louie’s fireplace, and halfway point for this section. I stop to cook some mashed potatoes and they taste great!. Fuel is going in and staying down, my legs are feeling strong and the feet are only slightly wounded from the wear and tear of the trail. All day I have been able to run when I need to and hike the rest. Things are looking up and confidence grows. The second half of the section moves quickly as I reach the dam in 11 hours from Piseco. 

7:15PM At the dam I brew up some tea and march down Cedar river road. I’m anxious to get onto the new rerouted section to Lake Durant. This summer the ADK trail crew built 8+ miles of new trail to eliminate 5 miles of road walking, a private property crossing and a horribly flooded section of trail. I turn on the headlamp and set a fast hiking pace as I cruise down the soft new trail. After a rollercoaster of a trail I find myself at the end of it and back on the original path of huge mud holes near Stevens Pond. # miles of mud hopping I arrive at Lake Durant Campground. Having travelled almost 50 miles today I want to sleep. But I know I need to push on.

12:35AM I arrive at Route 30 and ingest some more caffeine and head into the woods again. I have been on the move for 18 hours since my last nap. 55 miles remain to the Train Station in Lake Placid and I have to work tomorrow! The caffeine kicks in and I crash down the trail towards Tirrel pond listening to loud music on my Ipod. I moving faster than my brain can digest and at 2:15AM I pass the North end of Tirrell Pond. My goal for this push is just a few more miles of trail up to a dirt road and a well deserved bivouac. 3:30AM I am crawling into my “sleeping bag” and promptly pass out.

5:30AM I’m up and trying to warm up. I get some hot water brewing and chat with two thru-hikers who had thoughts of…

… from me stumbling into camp last night. I apologise for freaking them out and chat a bit as I pack up for the final push. 6:00AM I’m making the ascent to the high point of the route. I encountered a flooded meadow and managed to find the unmarked herdpath promptly around the mess.

8am I am at the top of the ridge. I grab some food and make a cell phone call to Alison to let her know my progress. I then call my boss to tell him that I’ll be at work in the morning as promised. Then with renewed energy I head out for the remaining 44 miles of the trail and into a world of pain.

9:25AM I cross Route 28 and head up Tarbell Hill Lane to the final section of the trail, 36 miles to Averyville Road. One mile in I have to stop, my feet are pissed! Blistered, swollen and tender. I preform crude surgery and bandage them up , then wash down some  Ibuprofen with tea. The next 5 miles has good runable trails until multiple beaver swamps ar encountered and navigated by reroutes.

2:20PM Mile 110 comes at Shattuck Clearing, 24 more miles to Averyville Road. My feet hurt but my legs are still working well. I grit my teeth and make good time to the Seward Lean-to. Then it slows down as the trail becomes more technical and tedious to hike on. Its mid afternoon and I’m ready for the pain to end, so I plug away and move as fast as possible passing Noah John Randeau’s hermitage . The next 4 miles to Duck Hole take for ever. Thinking the trail junction sign is just after this little rise time after time. My brain is playing games with me.

6:30PM Finally Duck Hole arrives and its 12 miles to Averyville. I try to make as best time before I lose daylight. The entire remaining 12 miles is like a bad nightmare. Slow going trail at night with more beaver dams to navigate.  My mind is long lost from being sleep deprived. I am hallucinating  and stumbling down the trail. I feel like I should be at the trailhead at any  moment but that doesn’t come for over an hour of “It’s around the next bend, I know it”. Its like someone is building more trail just ahead of me and it won’t ever end. Finally at 11:30pm I reach the Averville Trailhead and sign out. I’m greeted by Alison and friend Amy and promptly head out onto the road for 2 miles of road walking. It goes by fast enough,  I pass the  DEC sign at the “four corners” and  the last half mile to the train station. As the station comes into view relief comes over me and as I touch the front door I lay down and enjoy the moment 12:10AM. Then food comes to me in the form of the best tasting juice and salad ever. Time to go home and clean up because I have to work in a few hours.

 

Northville-Placid Trail

Bridge over Sacandaga Lake Northville NY-Train Station Lake Placid NY

135 Miles

September 2, 11:40AM – September 5, 12:10AM 2009

60.5 Hours

Unsupported Solo

Drew Haas

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